I sometimes wish London were a smaller city. The vastness of the place is such that intracity travel can act as a major deterrent to one looking to venture across town for a non-essential activity. I paid a visit to my old neighborhood, last night, and realized that, despite its being in a relatively central part of London, I hadn't been there more than five times since moving away nearly a year ago. Its centrality was, in fact, one of my reasons for leaving: it's bustling, there's no doubt about that, but I'll readily admit that the area has its virtues as well, not least of which is its proximity to Battersea High Street, nesting ground of the bellwether of UK Jazz Manouche, Le Quecumbar.
Opened a couple of years ago, Quecumbar has the look of a mid-war French bistro, complete with moustachioed Django Reinhardt doppelgangers, some of whom are as fleet of finger as the maître himself. The bar has live music every night but Sunday, and manages to attract some of the most illustrious performers in the world of Jazz Manouche, or gyspsy jazz. I used to spend a fair amount of time there, listening to the likes of the Robin Nolan Trio, Pete "Tiger" Sheppard, Nils Solberg, and, most remarkable of all, Moreno. As a matter of fact, the Moreno concert ranks as one of my greatest musical experiences to date, and that the whole thing actually happened was something of a miracle.
The word on the street was that Moreno was extremely supersticious, and reluctant to leave France, especially to travel across the Channel: flying was entirely out of the question, as was taking a boat or a train. How he actually got to London was something of a mystery, and one that nobody seemed too eager to clear up. I had arrived at Quecumbar incredibly early so as to get a good seat - I ended up an arm's length away from Moreno's rhythm guitarist, Matcho Winterstein - and hobnobbed a bit with the crowd until Moreno turned up with his wife, Marina, the group's singer. I can't remember the first song they played, but I do know that it was whipped off at something in the neighborhood of 420 bpm. Both Moreno and Matcho played with cigarettes either hanging from their mouths or nestled between their ring fingers and pinkies, and neither glanced down at his fretboard at any point during the performance. They played the usual suspects - Minor Swing, Manoir de mes reves, Nuages, the impossibly fast Tiger Rag - but also played a few traditional Romany folk songs, like Julik, which Marina sang in Patrin, and in a raspy mezzo voice.
Watching a Jazz Manouche guitarist's picking hand is hypnotic. Unlike most pick-dependent guitarists, whose picking attack changes considerably when they switch from rhythm to lead, most Manouche players maintain the same hand attitude at all times - basically, a loosely-closed fist - the result being incredibly smooth transitions from harmony to melody, a driving off-beat rhythm, and blazing alternate-picking. There are a lot of people who can play fast, but the best players - like Moreno, Jimmy Rosenberg, Bireli Lagrene, Frank Vignola - actually make smart melodic decisions in their improvising. Every once in a while you'll hear one of these guys play a note-for-note copy of a Django solo (listen to Jimmy Rosenberg's Limehouse Blues solo from the 2001 NYC Django Reinhardt Festival), but for the most part they're making it up as they go along. Moreno happens to be one of the best improvisers within the Manouche idiom, and as the evening wore on, he loosened up, taking some chances on chord solos and string-skipping arpeggios that you don't hear very often, especially live.
Though I'm a bit reluctant to admit this, the highlight of the night was a showpiece that, for lack of the proper term, I'll call guitare à quatre mains. The idea is that the lead guitarist sits in a chair holding the guitar as usual while his rhythm guitarist wraps his arms around him and plays predominantly first position chords. The soloist then proceeds to do his thing below the fifth fret. I won't bother arguing that the act isn't a novelty, but I will say that thanks to inadvertent harmonic augmentations, it's capable of producing some wonderfully colourful chords. It's also not as easy as it looks. If you don't believe me on either of these scores, call a friend, try it at home, and see what you get.
Moreno typically plays in Paris, where manouche is alive and well. Last I heard, he was playing a weekly gig at a small club near the Centre Pompidou, but I can't for the life of me remember what it's called. I had the name written down on a piece of paper, along with the name of the authority on gypsy jazz in Paris; I think it goes without saying that I've lost said piece of paper. So if anyone out there can clue me back in, please don't hesitate.